Words by Torey Cassidy
September 5th, 2018
Here lies our frilly dresses, basket bags and sandals. RIP. Watching summer come to an end feels like a bad breakup. The hottest one yet is sadly closing its doors. It’s the final golden hour, and time to set our sights ahead. But, what does a woman wear in the cooler months of today’s political climate? We’ve been through a lot in the last while, forcing us to want to both empower and protect ourselves. When we’re telling each other that “Time’s Up” in this post-Trump, turban-protesting, housing-crisis era, we’ve got to think of our clothes as armour. Modesty, warmth, and above all, protection are the champions of this season.
Protect yourself against the elements this winter with not one but two coats. Why? Because one is never enough! The outermost part of your outfit, it’s the first thing people see, so make an impact and stay warm! Que Friends memes- the one where Joey wears all of Chandler’s clothes. Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga teamed up with the World Food Programme to serve a doubled up layered look that spoke of survival, protection and social involvement while the outerwear became the dress at Maison Margiela where coats were worn as dresses and jumpers were worn as jackets.
Silver is shining its way through this season in a cool and futuristic manner. You might even take a second look at that tinfoil sitting in your kitchen drawer. Christopher Kane powered up with a tailored suit in sci-fi glamour while Marques’Almeida posed a metallic asymmetric dress layered atop an alluring Victorian blouse.
Lions and tigers and bears, oh my! Gallop into the new season in head-to-toe animal print. A sense of confidence comes along with wearing stripes and spots, but it’s not for the fainthearted. Max Mara sent Gigi Hadid down the runway in a skirt-layered-over-trousers ensemble. Even paired-back Victoria Beckham took on the OTT trend this season proving its stability. From bold prints backed by neon colours to subtle touchings, there are many ways to work this trend into your wardrobe.
Isabel Marant opening her show with Dolly Parton’s ‘Jolene’ is a mood. Such a mood we need to dress the part. Grab your cowboy boots and saddle up because there’s a rodeo in town! There was a dark and mysterious nature at Alberta Ferretti as all-black looks were paired with neckerchiefs and shadowing fedoras- it was almost as though the models were wanted with a €100k reward on their heads as they strut down the runway using their clothes as a badge of solidarity and defiance. Meanwhile, Natacha Ramsay-Levi tapped into crème brûlée colours at Chloé with a 1970’s approach to western style that was calm and grounded and feminine.
With our new-found, long-time-coming sense of independence and empowerment, we don’t need no man. Que Beyoncé, ‘all the woman, who are independent, throw your hands up at me’. Faux fur, retro silk scarves, tulle, and OTT glamour are all the elements you need for when the police come and tell you that your rich husband has died in mysterious circumstances. Look to Fendi, Max Mara and Bottega Veneta for inspiration.
From balaclavas to turbans, hijabs, hoods, and hats, the industry really wants you to cloak your head this season. A mixed response has come to this trend as some denoted it as cultural appropriation while others admired it for improving inclusivity. Maybe the trend works as a symbol of defiance towards the recent banning of religious headwear in parts of the world. Nonetheless, the trend has engulfed the runways, so grab some headgear and get going. Richard Quinn completely covered the face, while Marine Serre left a gap for the eyes to see, and Gucci draped a retro-silk-scarf over the models head- tell your grandmother she’s right on trend this season, she’ll be only delighted!
Social movement and women empowerment are prominent in this ’80s revival. Masculine dressing at Marc Jacobs, glamourous puffballs at Alexander McQueen, boxy shoulder pads at Tom Ford and neon hues at Versace all play a role in stating that us women, mean business.
Refresh your wardrobe this season with the best of what A/W18 has to offer. Shop some of our favourite picks below…
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