Words by Tanya Grimson
May 18th, 2015
Although spring/summer makeup is usually renowned for fresh faces with pastel touches, this season offered a full spectrum of choice from deep red lips a la Dolce & Gabbana to no makeup at all. And of course there were some looks that only look good on the catwalk. So which ones were winners and which ones should you leave on the pages of an editorial? We’ve asked international MUA, Sarah Lanagan, for her advice and tips on how to achieve this season’s looks and why some of them just won’t work in day to day life.
The most notable trend of the season is the minimal makeup trend. Although it can be difficult to pull off, if done correctly, your skin can appear radiant and flawless.
Barely there makeup featured on the runway for Alberta Ferretti, Gucci, Victoria Beckham and Alexander Wang, among others. Minimal foundation was applied without the use of translucent powder kept the models skin looking fresh.
Marc Jacobs, however, chose to take the trend to a whole other level and sent his models down the catwalk without any makeup at all! Thankfully, with a good primer, light foundation and groomed brows we can embrace the trend without having to brave the world barefaced.
Sarah’s tip: The real trick to perfecting the barely there look begins before makeup. To achieve a smoother base that makeup glides over be sure to cleanse, tone and exfoliate your skin. For an added glow I always like to add a touch of MAC Strobe Cream before foundation, blending along the cheekbones, brow bone, down the bridge of the nose and on the Cupid’s bow to highlight. For perfectly groomed brows you can’t go wrong with Make Up For Ever Aqua Brow, which come in 7 shades to suit different complexions. Define your lips with a nude lip liner, blended from the outer lip line inwards, using a cotton bud, and then tap on a balm or clear gloss for a subtle sheen.
While a strong red lip is often reserved for the winter months, Burberry Prorsum shook things up for its spring/summer show and debuted the collection with a classic red lip. Burberry’s MUA, Wendy Rowe, created the stunning look using Burberry ‘Lip Cover’ Soft Satin Lipstick in Ruby No.18.
Lipstick fans can rejoice as ruby red was not the only shade making an appearance on the S/S 15 catwalks. At Missoni and Zac Posen, orange hues were the shade of choice, while Topshop Unique and Dolce & Gabbana chose autumnal berry shades, with a definite nod to the late seventies.
Sarah’s tip: Red is back in a big way this season for lips and it’s the perfect time to try out something more adventurous if (like me!) you’ve been sticking to nudes throughout winter. For day to day wear, a product like NYC Smooch Proof Liquid lip stain in ‘Get Noticed’ is really purse friendly, but I also love Yves Saint Laurent Vernis À Lèvres Glossy Stain Rouge Laque, which lasts all day and never leaves lips feeling dry.
Purple eyeshadow is a legitimate trend for spring / summer, and not just an 80s throwback. This season, however, it’s more wearable and fresh, with a nod to the macro floral trend seen on the clothes. For Matthew Williamson, MUA, Charlotte Tilbury, mixed Benefit Hydra-Smooth Lip Color in ‘Fling Thing’ and ‘Dare Me’ then patted them onto the eyelids. Once blended, they finished with Creaseless Cream Eyeshadow in ‘Always A Bridesmaid’ in the centre, inner corner and lower lash line.
Sarah’s tip: Purple may not be everyone’s go to shade for eyes but it has made a serious come back this year! To avoid looking like you’ve been in a bar fight, stick to soft, dusty shades like a palette of lilac or mauve, and mix up textures between creamy shadows and powder. Maybelline Color Tattoo 24hr Gel-Cream Eyeshadow in ‘Painted Purple’ is lovely when concentrated close to the lashes and then blended out with a touch of liquid concealer – alternatively, Giorgio Armani Eyes To Kill Intense Eye Shadow in ‘Purpura’ is a beautiful powder shadow.
Traditional eyeliner got an upgrade for the coming season. Although the classic black was seen on many catwalks from Celine, Prada and Saint Laurent, bright hues were given a place in the spotlight as well, producing strong 70’s glam looks.
Some designers chose to take this trend to the next level as we saw strips of laser-cut pastel coloured satin to illustrate the effect at Dior, and MUA, Peter Philips, used strips of cornflower-blue leather for a retro inspired look at Fendi. The traditional cat eye also went under a makeover at Just Cavalli where the liner was winged out at an angle along the bottom lash, and at Saint Laurent, with model’s heavily lined eyes creating the perfect rock chick look.
Sarah’s tip: There’s something really elegant and subtle about fine liner as it gives eyes definition without looking like you tried too hard – although, it might take practice for those who don’t have a steady hand. Depending on how confident you are there are different ways to create whisper thin eyeliner; I often use the Shiseido Automatic Fine Eyeliner but you can also use a brush dipped in a gel liner. When applying the product, keep the tip of the brush/pen as close to lashes as possible, even letting it “paint” the lash root for more definition.
Sarah’s tip: Power brows has been a staple trend for many seasons. However, it looks like this is about to change with brows no longer being the focus of makeup looks on the catwalk. In fact some fashion houses such as Alexander Wang and Givenchy chose to bleach their models’ brows. Even the poster girl for strong brows, Cara Delevingne, was seen without on the catwalk. On trend they may be, but it’s a tricky one for every day wear. Normally, brows act as a frame for eyes and give definition to our faces so when they’re bleached out, all that is gone. Makeup artists will usually compensate with clever contouring to create drama for fashion shows, which looks amazing in context but wouldn’t fly on a regular night out.
Sarah’s tip: Graphic liner is always a fun one to play around with but doesn’t translate easily into normal life – unless you’re really adventurous of course! The important thing to remember is, what is on trend may not always suit you, whether it’s eye shape or preference so when it comes to looks like this, play around with a different colour or a new size/shape of liner that works for you.
Sarah’s tip: Bejewelled models dazzled on the Ashish runway for SS15 and while this is a makeup artist’s dream to create, it is a bit more of a statement than most women would like to make on a Friday or Saturday night! More wearable, 3D nails accompanied the look but ultimately when it comes to something like this the phrase you’re looking for is “high maintenance” – you’d be afraid to blink, laugh or talk wearing that much bling on your face!
This article was assisted by Jessica Deveney and Sarah Lanagan
To find out what the hottest nail colour trends of the season are click here
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